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Granada is one of the last cities in Spain where tapas are still free: You order a drink and it comes with a free side dish.
That changes the way we eat here. You don’t just choose a restaurant: you go on a culinary journey. And you have to know which way to go.
The rule: Every drink comes with a tapa, and The lid changes with each round. In most bars, you don’t get to choose: they serve you whatever’s on the menu.
And there is a progression things you should know: they start off gently —sausages, fried foods, potato salad— and are becoming increasingly forceful course by course, right through to stews or meat. That’s why the third course is usually the best.
Insider tip: calls for small drinks. More rounds, more different tapas.
The times: Midday begins at around 13:30 and in the evening from 20:30. Outside these times, many bars do not serve tapas.
This is what causes the most frustration, because it affects highly recommended venues:
Those that are open every day: Bodegas Castañeda, the Old Bodega Castañeda and T. Catedral.
The tapas street, pedestrianised, with the bars right next to one another. Lively, whether standing or at a high table, and the busiest. A good place to start.
The must-have: The Diamonds (Navas, 28). Open since 1942 and with 4.5 out of over 5,300 reviews. Specialising in fried fish and seafood. It gets busy: You need to arrive before opening time whether you want a table or to sit at the bar.
Bear in mind one thing: If there are more than two of you, they sometimes «forget» the second tapa. Don’t hesitate to ask for it.
Two minutes away, on Calle Piedra Santa: El Mentidero Tavern, the highest-rated in the area with a rating of 4.6. More of a restaurant than a bar, with carefully prepared food. Tel. +34 622 76 74 52.
A more laid-back atmosphere than Navas, with terraces and classic bars. A place to sit and relax between visits.
Here, we need to clear up a common misunderstanding: there are two different Castañedas, very close to one another and with almost identical names.
And on Calle Postigo Velutti: Saint Germain, a wine bar with 4,5 and a good selection of local white wines. It is closed on Mondays and Sundays. Tel. +34 958 20 00 37.
Subject to: T. Cathedral (Marqués de Gerona, 5) has a special offer on ten tapas for ten euros and it’s open every day, but it’s the lowest-rated in this guide: 3.7. It’s fine for a quick bite, but not for a memorable meal.
Elvira Street —that is, not «Elviria»— links Plaza Nueva with the Albaicín and is the street of tea shops: Moroccan teas, Moroccan pastries and handicrafts.
The best time is mid-afternoon, for tea and sweets before heading up to the Albaicín. There are also some traditional bars mixed in.
The neighbourhood for taking your time over a meal. Steep streets, terraces and viewpoints overlooking the Alhambra.
The route that works: Paseo de los Tristes, and then uphill through the squares: San Gregorio Square, San Miguel Bajo y Plaza Larga, as far as the San Nicolás viewpoint.
It’s easy to get lost, and that is part of the charm. Best at sunset, although the terraces with views do get busy.
A local, slightly bohemian atmosphere, with the street art on its streets and the terraces of the Campo del Príncipe. It is situated at the foot of the Alhambra.
The must-see attraction: La Tana Tavern (Placeta del Agua, 3). 4.4 out of 3,700 reviews, and it was one of Anthony Bourdain’s favourites. An extensive wine list and generous portions. Tel. +34 958 22 52 48.
⚠️ But it’s closed on Saturdays and Sundays. It’s the most common mistake: people go there at the weekend only to find it’s closed.
Note: You often read that La Tana is on Calle Navas. That’s not the case: it’s in the Realejo.
If you want to experience the city’s authentic tapas scene, these two are off the circuit:
Three dishes that can only be fully appreciated here:
And to finish off, the piononos from Santa Fe: sponge cake soaked in liqueur, topped with toasted cream. More at traditional sweets from Granada.
The tapas tour starts at 1.30 pm and the Alhambra has a scheduled time slot, so it’s worth looking at both of them together: How to visit the Alhambra.
And as for the rest, What to see in Granada and, as a couple, Five ideas for a romantic getaway.
We are a local tour operator based in Málaga with over 50 years’ experience organising trips around Andalusia. The self-guided option leaves plenty of time to go for some tapas in the centre:
The whole destination, in The Granada Guide.
Every drink comes with a free tapa, and the tapa changes with each new round. In most bars, you don’t get to choose what’s served. There’s also a progression: the first ones are light and become increasingly hearty, so it’s best to order small drinks to keep the rounds going. The peak times are from 1.30 pm and 8.30 pm.
Taberna La Tana, in the Realejo district, is closed on Saturdays and Sundays, which surprises many visitors as it is one of the most highly recommended venues. Saint Germain is closed on Mondays and Sundays. Los Diamantes, on Calle Navas, has split opening hours from 12.30 pm to 4.00 pm and from 8.00 pm to 11.30 pm. Bodegas Castañeda, the Antigua Bodega Castañeda and T. Catedral are open every day.
It depends on the atmosphere. Calle Navas is the most convenient and central place to start, although it’s also the busiest. El Realejo offers a local atmosphere with a character all of its own, whilst the Albaicín is the place to go for a leisurely meal with views of the Alhambra. For an everyday tapas experience without the tourists, try the area around the bullring and the Pedro Antonio de Alarcón neighbourhood.
Yes, and they’re often confused because they have almost identical names and are very close to one another. Bodegas Castañeda is on Calle Almireceros and has over 11,000 reviews; the Antigua Bodega Castañeda is on Calle Bodegoncillos, has a better rating and offers a set menu. Both are open every day.
Lamb’s brains and testicles, served with vegetables. This is the most iconic tapa in Granada’s culinary tradition, and it’s worth knowing what it’s made of before ordering it, as its name doesn’t give it away and it bears no resemblance to a Spanish omelette.
Los Diamantes, at number 28, has been open since 1942. It specialises in fried fish and seafood and has a rating of 4.5 out of more than 5,300 reviews. It fills up quickly, so it’s best to arrive before opening time to secure a table or simply take a seat at the bar.
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