Mount Victoria, Málaga

The Mount Victoria is the hill that rises above the La Victoria neighbourhood, at a ten-minute walk from Plaza de la Merced. It has 193.5 metres and a a 312,000-square-metre woodland park.

People from Málaga don’t call it that. They call it «The Hill of the Three Letters», and behind that name lies a story that deserves to be told properly.

The three letters: what they are and what they mean

If you look at the hillside from the centre, you’ll see a whitish patch halfway up, in the treeless area. They were three letters painted in lime: «JAC», by Catholic Action Youth.

They were painted in August 1939, shortly after the Civil War had ended, by young people from that organisation, which had a very active branch in the neighbourhood.

But they weren’t the first letters

Here’s the interesting bit. Before the «JAC» appeared at the summit, there were also some painted in whitewash, the acronym for the PCE, the Communist Party of Spain. This prompted a reaction from the regime, and the three Catholic organisations were the answer.

In other words: That hillside was a political noticeboard in the early post-war months, and what remains today is the side that won the battle over the colour of the lime.

And the detail that makes it a human story

It is said that The father of one of those young men continued to climb up to repaint the letters for years after his son had died.

That is why the stain remained visible over the city for so long.

What isn’t true about the mountain

It’s worth mentioning, as this rumour is doing the rounds quite a bit. Stories circulate about secret tunnels said to connect the hill with Gibralfaro Castle, about shadows amongst the trees, and about rituals held in a chapel during the post-war period.

There is no record of any of that. Neither in municipal records nor in the neighbourhood’s historical documentation. The true story behind the three letters is far more interesting than any of those fabrications.

Documented legends from Málaga – you can find them at The Legends of Málaga.

The views

It has a viewing platform and is free of charge. From up here, you can take in the sea, the harbour, the cathedral, the silhouette of Gibralfaro and, in the distance, the Montes de Málaga.

The difference compared to Gibralfaro: Over there you can see the city and the bay; here you can see as well as the castle itself framed in such a way that offers a view not available from anywhere else in the centre.

And there are far fewer people. You can see the comparison at the best viewpoints in Málaga.

How to upload

Two entrances:

• Along Calle Conde de Ureña, coming up from the La Victoria neighbourhood. It’s the usual route.
• By El Limonar, from the eastern part.

It’s about ten minutes from Plaza de la Merced up to the start, and then the climb.

What you need to know before you go:

• There are no officially signposted routes. These are the forest park’s dirt tracks.
• Closed-toe footwear: There are some steep sections with loose ground.
• Water and a cap in summer, because there are sections with no shade.
• Go in the morning or at sunset. It’s tough at midday in summer.

A forest under threat

A note to provide some context for what you’re about to see. Mount Victoria has lost its connection with the Montes de Málaga Natural Park due to the development of the surrounding area, with the Colinas del Limonar housing estate.

And there is a local authority plan to turn it into a leisure park —widening roads, installing streetlights, creating play areas and picnic areas— which conservation groups consider incompatible with its biodiversity and geological significance.

In other words: What you see today may not always be the case. It’s worth climbing it whilst it still retains its wild, unspoilt character.

What to wear it with

It’s right next to the centre, so it’s easy to fit in:

• The Gibralfaro viewpoint y the Alcazaba, on the hill next door.
• The gardens of Puerta Oscura, on the southern slope of Gibralfaro.
• The Plaza de la Merced and the La Victoria neighbourhood, one of the oldest and least touristy in the city.

And it’s free: more free plans at free things to do in Málaga, and for sunset, the best sunsets.

The entire historic centre, in The 8 must-see monuments.

Excursions from Malaga

We are a local tour operator based in Málaga with over 50 years’ experience organising trips around Andalusia. If you enjoy walking tours:

You’ve got the city in What to see in Málaga in three days and destiny in The Malaga Guide.

Frequently asked questions

Why is Mount Victoria known as «the mountain of the Three Letters»?

Because of the initials «JAC», standing for Catholic Action Youth, which were painted in lime with a brush on its slope in August 1939 by young people from that organisation, which had an active centre in the La Victoria neighbourhood. The resulting whitish mark was visible from half the city and eventually gave the hill its popular name. In the past, it was also known as San Cristóbal Hill.

Is it true that there used to be other versions of the lyrics?

Yes, and that’s the least well-known part of the story. Before the «JAC» appeared, the initials of the PCE – the Spanish Communist Party – had been painted in lime on the hilltop, which prompted a reaction from the regime. The three Catholic letters were the response, so that hillside served as a political noticeboard in the early months of the post-war period.

How high is Mount Victoria?

193.5 metres above sea level. It forms part of the Monte Victoria Forest Park, which covers some 312,000 square metres in the heart of Málaga’s Centro district, and is about a ten-minute walk from Plaza de la Merced.

How do you get to the top of Mount Victoria?

There are two ways to get there: via Calle Conde de Ureña, heading up from the La Victoria neighbourhood – which is the usual route – and via the El Limonar neighbourhood. It is worth noting that there are no officially signposted routes, just dirt tracks through the forest park, so it is advisable to wear closed-toe shoes, take water with you and avoid the midday hours in summer.

What can you see from Mount Victoria?

The sea, the harbour, the cathedral and the Montes de Málaga in the background. What sets it apart from Gibralfaro is that from here you can also see the castle itself silhouetted against the city – a view that cannot be seen from anywhere else in the city centre. The viewpoint is free to access and is usually much less crowded.

Are there secret tunnels on Mount Victoria?

There is no record of this. There are tales circulating about secret passages linking the hill to Gibralfaro Castle, shadows amongst the trees, or rituals in a chapel during the post-war period, but none of these are documented in municipal or historical sources. The verified history of the three letters is far more interesting.